Classic French Canadian fare from T Poutine. Though I never ate poutine—French fries topped with gravy and cheese curds—when I was growing up in Toronto, poutine has become a synecdoche for Canadian food. From Vancouver to New York, restaurants are serving it, I think, as part of the same elevated-junk-food trend that has made hamburgers, fried chicken, and meatballs popular, even among our finest chefs. Poutine dates from the 1950s. Even at its best it isn’t very good. The poutine at T Poutine, opened by a sexy québécois model, is typically unremarkable, which makes it very authentic. Their traditional preparation is in the background of this photo. In the foreground, a hamburger poutine fantasy.